Frequently Asked Questions

/Frequently Asked Questions
Frequently Asked Questions2019-01-11T01:51:48+00:00

The standard re-entry time is 2 hours. This is the amount of time that is recommended on the product label, that allows for proper drying time and adequate time for the product to soak into the plant. This holds true for both liquid and granular applications, because remember, even though you may have had a granular fertilizer, you are also getting a spot treatment of liquid weed control on any existing weeds in your lawn

At Greenside we like to provide the best service possible. Our trained technicians are always aware of the weather conditions and use their best judgement when applying your treatments. In general, all technicians will stop applying treatments 2 hours prior to a heavy rainfall to ensure effective results. This holds true for applications that may be affected from the rain. Keep in mind, some applications benefit from rainfall. If you have any questions or concerns whether your treatment will be affected, please feel free to contact the office.

Crabgrass is a widely distributed annual that germinates throughout the summer. Seedlings sprout quickly, forming a clump with extensive roots where soil is moist. Once established, it is difficult to weed out because it roots at the nodes. The large crabgrass seedling is pale green and covered with coarse hairs. Plants form open clumps up to 2 feet tall. Smooth crabgrass can be distinguished from large crabgrass by its shorter, wider leaf, and lack of hairs; it is most often found in turf grass. The best time to control crabgrass is in spring, generally before May 15th. At that time, a pre-emergent is put down that sets a barrier on the soil to prevent crabgrass from germinating.

Tall fescue is a grass that is often used as a lawn grass, but will cause a weedy appearance when mixed with bluegrass or ryegrass. A bunch grass, it forms unsightly, coarse clumps in lawns. Also used in agriculture, it can invade home lawns from agricultural lands, ditches, or when lawns are planted on former agricultural land. Contaminated sod may introduce it, and it is often planted by the unwary homeowner by using low quality seed.

Aeration helps lawns by breaking up the thatch layer. Too much thatch may house insects and diseases, prevents pesticides from reaching the pests in the soil such as grubs or crabgrass seed, and reduce the effectiveness of fertilizers and watering. Thatch is a layer of undecomposed and partially decomposed plant material tightly interwoven with living tissue between the soil surface and green vegetation. A moderate layer of thatch (less than 3/4 inch thick) is good. It protects the growing point of the grass, and moderate changes in soil temperature. Aeration also reduces compaction problems. Compacted soil reduces the amount of oxygen to the roots, restricts root growth, and limits water absorption. Aeration creates holes in the soil allowing oxygen and water to get deep into the soil, which encourages a deeper root growth. Deeper roots improve nutrient and water intake, which encourages grass growth and results in a denser turf that helps to crowd out unwanted weeds.

When soil is compacted -When the thatch layer is more than a half inch thick- Before over seeding turf.

Grubs are c-shaped, white or gray larvae of beetles that feast on the roots of your grasses. If they are not treated properly they have the potential to leave nothing behind but dead turf. If you suspect a grub problem, look for: large irregular brown patches in the grass that can be rolled back like a loose carpet. If 2-5 grubs are found per square foot, an insecticide application should be applied. Moles, skunks, or raccoons in your yard can indicate a grub problem because these animals feast on grubs. Damage is common in midsummer.

Chances are good, that you have either experienced first-hand or know someone that has had their lawn destroyed by grubs. We are pleased to inform you that there is prevention for this problem. We like to call our preventative grub control application “insurance for your lawn”. White grubs eat the roots of grasses and other plants. Where grubs are few, turf may look healthy because grass plants may develop new roots as fast as grubs eat the old ones. Depending on the grub species, grub populations averaging five or more per square foot can damage the root system and cause unhealthy, turf above ground. Damaged turf will readily “roll-up” like a rug. Turf grass roots normally grow rapidly in the spring and fall, and slowly during summer. Therefore, problems with grubs are greatest in summer because roots don’t recover normally. Inadequate soil moisture may increase the problem since the few healthy roots have no moisture to take up. For this season, grub damage typically shows up during the normally drier months of August and early September, although grubs may have been feeding earlier in the summer depending on the grub species. There are two approaches to controlling grubs: preventative (before the damage occurs) and curative (when lawns show damage). Sometimes both approaches are needed to adequately control grubs. Preventative treatments must be in place when eggs are laid. This will provide up to 95% control of white grubs. Curative treatments provide effective control of young white grubs; larger grubs are more difficult to control. Curative insecticides offer 50-75% control. If you are interested in more information on grubs and our services to control these pests, please contact the office. A quote for the preventative application can be given over the phone. If you are interested in scheduling this service, be sure to contact the office before the end of June. The technicians will be applying the preventative application during the end of June thru mid-July.

One reason why you might want to overseed your lawn is that your lawn is thin. A thin lawn means more room for unwanted weed or undesirable grasses to make their way into your lawn. By over seeding and existing lawn, you are going dramatically thicken up your lawn making it much denser, leaving no room for weeds or undesirable grasses such as quack grass to grow. Another reason you might want to overseed is if you had insect damage in the past that has left you with bare areas. Similar to a thin lawn, these bare are leave lots of room for weeds to grow and rapidly spread. The third reason why you might want to overseed is to introduce new species of grass into your lawn. We can customize to you needs and desires. For example, some new species of grass are much more durable than others and they can tolerate the abuse of high traffic and summer stress much better.

To get the best results, over seeding should be done in fall. September is generally the best time of the year because the weather conditions are most favorable.

An invasive plant is any plant that is not native to the environment in which it is found. They are generally considered to be aggressive and act in a manner that is not compatible with other plant species present. These non-native species come to our environment from a number of origins, including those that arrive in the bilge waters of ships from other countries, those that may have been intentionally planted for decorative purposed, and those that arrive through a number of “accidental” means.

Invasive plants in most cases will try to take over the environment in which they have become established by crowding out the native species. They also may corrupt the soil so that in the future other native plants are unable to grow in those locations. In addition, taller invasive plants can even keep native plants from growing by shading the area with their canopy of foliage and keeping the sunlight from providing normal growth patterns.

The most comprehensive plans for controlling invasive plant species currently include a multi-stage approach. Individual situations and specific plant materials will dictate the best approach for a given control program. An inspection of the property must be made in order to determine the best management practice to be employed. In most cases, a combination of burning, mowing, & herbicide application will provide the most effective management and control of invasive plants.

No, we take pride in your lawn. We will not cut if there is any chance of leaving ruts in your yard.

We have been in business since 2009.

Yes. We strive to work around your schedule, even for special events. We can insure that your lawn is looking it’s best the day before that big family get-together, or birthday party.

We can be there within 24 hours most of the time, weather permitting.

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